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Shantz

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Posts posted by Shantz

  1. Folks, just wanted to let you know couple of things about the stock checker:

    - Both flipkart and amazon have added some anti bot measures

    - FK seems to be returning fake in-stock messages to bot, not sure yet how. Debugging this but have taken down this checker for now

    - Amazon is blocking the bot around 60-70% of the time, so stock notifications may be missed/delayed.

    • Like 4
  2. 1 minute ago, quixote_1989 said:

    Now that Amazon has finally delivered, Flipkart is dropping units left and right. I even got to see the Add to Cart button for the first time ever. I am running short on gaalis.

    Yeah, at least 5-6 units came in but they are putting it out in stock 1 by 1 and bots are snapping them up immediately.

    • Like 2
  3. 1 hour ago, Bird Bird Bird said:

    There's a USB cable in the box. Works fine with PS5 and DS. -_-

     

    58 minutes ago, Keyofx said:

    Well, the good news is that the downloads are really fast!

     

     

    Damn, you're right :rofl: It was in some random side compartment. I thought they went full Apple!

    Oh wow, there is? I searched for it and didn't find one so had to dig one out of the cable cupboard.

    • Haha 2
  4. 31 minutes ago, abhi90 said:

    I've been using the hdmi cable with my ps4 for years. I tried it with 2-3 other hdmi cable and shall also try it with the official cable if the problem persists.

     

    What's the blue light though :fear: 

    Achcha quote dilwao OLED ka.

    And I'm lazy as f**k, often pause a game for 30 minutes. THat will increase the chance of burn it :fear: 

     

    At least for LG OLEDs, there's not much issue of burn in. My TV is in pause state for several hours everyday for the last 3+ years and no issues so far.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 2
  5. 11 minutes ago, kunjanp said:

    Mine has as well but that comes from the power supply area, not from the fan. That is because of the capacitors and the lack of silicone paste.

     

    12 minutes ago, koolkunz said:

    This is normal I guess, mine also has a similar noise. But it's not loud enough to bother me.

     

    15 minutes ago, Kushagra said:

    So, I shared about the weird noise I was having from my PS5. I was scouring the internet and I found a video which shows the EXACT same noise which mine is making

     

     

    So IVGians, what are my options? 

     

    Mine is dead silent while idle. Even while playing games I don't really hear anything even while standing right next to it and have to strain very hard to make out a very faint sound.

  6. 2 hours ago, Jigsaw said:

     

    Adding @Shantz too

     

    Always had an itch for a receiver. Do they add input lag at all? That's my biggest ocd because of cod mp. 

     

    Otherwise the Bar9.1 might be a good upgrade from my LG 2.1 soundbar. 

    As long as you are not doing any processing, the video should be passthrough, so any additional lag should be minimal (low single digits probably).

    Node that this may vary from model to model, and especially soundbars may cut corners compared to proper receivers.  But anyways in worst case, you can connect the console to tv directly and then feed audio to receiver via ARC/eARC which should eliminate it completely.

     

    And like keyo said, soundbar simulation is nowhere near an actual physically placed speaker setup. Also you can upgrade such a setup independently instead of having to replace the full soundbar. Even a basic AVR + speaker setup will sound better than many expensive soundbars.

    • Thanks 1
  7. 18 minutes ago, Ne0 said:

     

    woah, nice man, congrats on the purchase.  All you need is a gaming PC to complete the circle (or the square whenever the next-gen nintendo releases) !  Is the HT a 5.1 ? 

    Haha yeah. It's a toss up between a switch and a PC whichever way my son gravitates towards on his birthday later this year :P Right now switch is winning.

    Yeah, the HT is 5.1

  8. 34 minutes ago, Keyofx said:

     

    Nice! What TV are you on?

     

    A thought, but it might be more efficient if you hook the consoles straight to the TV if it's a recent one (with HDMI 2.1 features), and get the audio back to the receiver via ARC or eARC. You'll lose out on all the HDMI 2.1 goodness if you go through a non-HDMI 2.1 AVR.

    It's an LG C7, so no HDMI 2.1. That's why I connected via the AVR since there's not much to lose. It's much simpler that way and much better sound.

    • Like 1
  9. 27 minutes ago, Keyofx said:

     

    I'm out of reactions for today. Congrats :D

     

    What model Yamaha A/V is that? I have an Onkyo myself. It's usually soundbars round these parts, so this is a nice change. Passthrough audio via ARC or are you using optical?

    Danke :arigato:

    It's HTR 3072. All consoles are connected to the AVR directly and then AVR is feeding to the TV.

  10. 14 minutes ago, Bird Bird Bird said:

    @Shantz : APC UPS have been rated pretty bad after their takeover by Schneider. Most Amazon reviews say the backup is bad, and battery gets replaced every 4-5 months. 

     

    When did you purchase yours ?

    I've bought quite a few over the years, the most recent ones last year (One BR1000G and one BX600). All of them worked well. Had issue once with an older model (an 800VA one) and they sent engineer next day to home to check it (they replaced battery first and then the whole UPS, no questions asked).

    Don't buy from amazon. I think the issue with amazon is different (Old pieces or something). I always bought locally or from estorewale.

  11. Just now, Bird Bird Bird said:

    APC anytime. 1500G will work well. Don't go for microtek. They often have switchover delay issues. APC is tried and tested. Also if you see any issue in APC, the after sales service is quite good.

    • Like 1
  12. Just now, Bird Bird Bird said:

     

    I need UPS only for TV, PS5 and sound system. The house already has an inverter, so backup is not a challenge. The switchover is long enough to let all devices restart, and that's where the challenge is. 

     

    C8 is rated at 150W, Edifier at 150W and PS5 at 350W, so a total of 650W. Heck, I can do away with the Edifier, so TV and PS5 at least need to be preserved - 500W minimum. 

    Haan then BR1000G or BX1100C will work for you. But still prefer to not put C8 on the same UPS. Like I said, I've seen the OLEDs spike to large values above the typical rating so it may cause you some unknown issues sometime. Keep the TV on inverter, it's not an issue even if it restarts.

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