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The Home Theatre Set-Up


achilles
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An update after quite a while, even without the loss in posts. One of the reasons I was posting my experience here was because I wanted a personal recollection, a diary I could read later. A catalog for my choices. That would help me understand better whenever I found some change in the way I think about this stuff. 

A major change happened last night.

 

I was a little baked and it was late and I wanted to watch El Camino. Around 2 AM.

Usually, before I settle in to watch what I truly want to watch, I "warm-up" with some YouTube videos, trailers, and the like for about 10 minutes. Just as I was about to put the movie on, my phone buzzed. The text simply said: "Volume". 

Hmm. 

 

I wanted to watch, because I was baked, and you know how that goes. So I reduced the volume to a level that it won't be a bother for the text-sender. I usually play Netflix at about 7 db below reference (about 73 db, because apparently that's how these high-end processors show sound level). I turned it down to -21. 

 

Holy hell what a goddamn transformation. Not only was the experience more enjoyable, it was immersive. It was immersive to a level which it hasn't been earlier. Everything sounded better, real-er, crisper. Incredible detail, that usually got mushed due to the loudness earlier, and nuance just oozed out. I sound like a pretentious douche here probably, but it was goddamn epic. Church, yo. 

 

The entire experience was much more enjoyable, without being taxing. And that got me thinking. The audio engineers that create these masterpieces, and El Camino is an aural masterpiece, would also be tuning these sounds to be played within a certain optimum range. Too loud is just that, it is too loud. 

 

I then went a few steps further. I adjusted levels of LCR and down-levelled L and R three steps, and down-levelled the subs from -14, -17 to -23 and -25. No unnecessary exaggerations of any effects.  In doing so I realised that I needed to keep the centre speaker which handles the vocal soundtrack primarily at a higher level because the effects were drowning out the sound. Soon as I moved to this "calmer" set-up, I could bring the centre down a couple of notches which also made it sound much more natural.

 

So, to sum up, thank god for that text :D 

Now, the sound is just.. 

 

c816f6bf7ea8b526652487e3479943cc.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

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6 minutes ago, achilles said:

An update after quite a while, even without the loss in posts. One of the reasons I was posting my experience here was because I wanted a personal recollection, a diary I could read later. A catalog for my choices. That would help me understand better whenever I found some change in the way I think about this stuff. 

A major change happened last night.

 

I was a little baked and it was late and I wanted to watch El Camino. Around 2 AM.

Usually, before I settle in to watch what I truly want to watch, I "warm-up" with some YouTube videos, trailers, and the like for about 10 minutes. Just as I was about to put the movie on, my phone buzzed. The text simply said: "Volume". 

Hmm. 

 

I wanted to watch, because I was baked, and you know how that goes. So I reduced the volume to a level that it won't be a bother for the text-sender. I usually play Netflix at about 7 db below reference (about 73 db, because apparently that's how these high-end processors show sound level). I turned it down to -21. 

 

Holy hell what a goddamn transformation. Not only was the experience more enjoyable, it was immersive. It was immersive to a level which it hasn't been earlier. Everything sounded better, real-er, crisper. Incredible detail, that usually got mushed due to the loudness earlier, and nuance just oozed out. I sound like a pretentious douche here probably, but it was goddamn epic. Church, yo. 

 

The entire experience was much more enjoyable, without being taxing. And that got me thinking. The audio engineers that create these masterpieces, and El Camino is an aural masterpiece, would also be tuning these sounds to be played within a certain optimum range. Too loud is just that, it is too loud. 

 

I then went a few steps further. I adjusted levels of LCR and down-levelled L and R three steps, and down-levelled the subs from -14, -17 to -23 and -25. No unnecessary exaggerations of any effects.  In doing so I realised that I needed to keep the centre speaker which handles the vocal soundtrack primarily at a higher level because the effects were drowning out the sound. Soon as I moved to this "calmer" set-up, I could bring the centre down a couple of notches which also made it sound much more natural.

 

So, to sum up, thank god for that text :D 

Now, the sound is just.. 

 

c816f6bf7ea8b526652487e3479943cc.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just wanted to mention that I thoroughly enjoy your posts. Please keep them coming.

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On 11/3/2019 at 2:13 PM, achilles said:

An update after quite a while, even without the loss in posts. One of the reasons I was posting my experience here was because I wanted a personal recollection, a diary I could read later. A catalog for my choices. That would help me understand better whenever I found some change in the way I think about this stuff. 

A major change happened last night.

 

I was a little baked and it was late and I wanted to watch El Camino. Around 2 AM.

Usually, before I settle in to watch what I truly want to watch, I "warm-up" with some YouTube videos, trailers, and the like for about 10 minutes. Just as I was about to put the movie on, my phone buzzed. The text simply said: "Volume". 

Hmm. 

 

I wanted to watch, because I was baked, and you know how that goes. So I reduced the volume to a level that it won't be a bother for the text-sender. I usually play Netflix at about 7 db below reference (about 73 db, because apparently that's how these high-end processors show sound level). I turned it down to -21. 

 

Holy hell what a goddamn transformation. Not only was the experience more enjoyable, it was immersive. It was immersive to a level which it hasn't been earlier. Everything sounded better, real-er, crisper. Incredible detail, that usually got mushed due to the loudness earlier, and nuance just oozed out. I sound like a pretentious douche here probably, but it was goddamn epic. Church, yo. 

 

The entire experience was much more enjoyable, without being taxing. And that got me thinking. The audio engineers that create these masterpieces, and El Camino is an aural masterpiece, would also be tuning these sounds to be played within a certain optimum range. Too loud is just that, it is too loud. 

 

I then went a few steps further. I adjusted levels of LCR and down-levelled L and R three steps, and down-levelled the subs from -14, -17 to -23 and -25. No unnecessary exaggerations of any effects.  In doing so I realised that I needed to keep the centre speaker which handles the vocal soundtrack primarily at a higher level because the effects were drowning out the sound. Soon as I moved to this "calmer" set-up, I could bring the centre down a couple of notches which also made it sound much more natural.

 

So, to sum up, thank god for that text :D 

Now, the sound is just.. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Interesting. 

 

I'm running my 7.1.4 set through a Marantz 8012, however, I can't go down much low due to the fact that the room being my living, it is decently big and there are openings around. So I have to keep the sound at a minimum level to be able to go through with the content. If I do level up the center, it would be dominating the surrounds a little more than my liking. 

 

On another note, I'm running my set up without the sub right now as there's an issue with it and getting it fixed. Some of the content I've watched lately, I didn't miss my sub as much as I thought I would, perhaps the reason being the powered subs in the L/R towers. 

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1 hour ago, Ne0 said:

Guys what's the best I can get in a modest budget (under 25-30k) ?

Sympathies? :p

 

Quote

 

 

 

 

 

 


A very basic package with no support for DV or atmos with 6 ohms output will be approximately 33k from yamaha. Sugeest to stretch a bit. 

 

Alternatively go for something from philips or sony
 

 

 

 

Edited by AtheK
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10 hours ago, Ne0 said:

Guys what's the best I can get in a modest budget (under 25-30k) ?


My recommendation: a JBL sound bar with wireless sub. It’s quite decent. Listen to it out in a store before you order. 

 

9 hours ago, AtheK said:

Sympathies?


:rofl:

Edited by achilles
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  • 1 month later...

It's kind of hard to believe myself, but I watched Ford vs Ferrari over the weekend. I was lucky that it was still running at a time I could catch it in the cinema. What's hard to believe is that this is the first movie I've watched at a theatre since I got my set up. Once I realised this, I started paying more attention, and I can say now, with very little doubt, that movie watching experience is better in my room, compared to a commercial cinema, which in this case was a PVR Icon. 

 

The movie itself was okay. I didn't love it, but it wasn't bad. Now though, I want to get the BD and hear that gut wrenching 4.7L V8 revving to 7000. Man that was a feeling I'd like to feel again. 

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Oops. I missed this post. 

 

On 11/6/2019 at 11:24 AM, sweetvar26 said:

I'm running my 7.1.4 set through a Marantz 8012, however, I can't go down much low due to the fact that the room being my living, it is decently big and there are openings around. So I have to keep the sound at a minimum level to be able to go through with the content. If I do level up the center, it would be dominating the surrounds a little more than my liking. 

  

On another note, I'm running my set up without the sub right now as there's an issue with it and getting it fixed. Some of the content I've watched lately, I didn't miss my sub as much as I thought I would, perhaps the reason being the powered subs in the L/R towers. 

 

What's your complete set-up? Post pics please. 

 

Yeah, my room is bare and hard walled, so the sound is better low-er, compared to an open space like a living room. 

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On 1/9/2020 at 12:30 PM, sweetvar26 said:

 

Hey sure, I am running a 7.1.4 configuration and here's the set up currently. 

Quote

 

65 LG C8 Oled

Marantz 8012 11.2-channel home theater receiver

McIntosh SL1 sub (It is old and have issues with this)

DefTech BP9080x towers as L & R with Integrated 12" Powered Subwoofer and Height Module (I'm currently not using the upward firing Atmos speakers from the towers)
DefTech CS9080 for center with Integrated 8" Powered Subwoofer and Bass Radiator (Currently not using the powered sub from the center)
2 x DefTech SR9080 Bipolar Surround Speakers for surrounds

2 x DefTech SR9040 Bipolar Surround Speakers for rear surrounds
4 x Micca 8C in ceiling speakers, 8 inch

 

That's quite a set-up! 

 

On 1/9/2020 at 12:30 PM, sweetvar26 said:
Quote

Few things, I have to get additional support for the towers to prevent vibrations going through the walls and pillars. So looking into options currently.

Step 1: get a nice, big, swampy rug. 

 

On 1/9/2020 at 12:30 PM, sweetvar26 said:
Quote

I am also looking to replace my current old and dying sub, as of right now I am leaning towards the Rythmik F18, it is an18" sealed audiophile sub with 900WRMS amplifier.

Rhythmik makes good subs. Do they have an official presence in India? Where is your place? Looking at your set-up, maybe you don't even need a sub.

 

On 1/9/2020 at 12:30 PM, sweetvar26 said:

 

Quote

also happened to get some fabric panels made as you see on the left. 

 

Can you share clearer pictures of the fabric panel? How'd you get it made? 

 

On 1/9/2020 at 12:30 PM, sweetvar26 said:

So I am looking to reduce the vibrations going to the floor through the speakers

You could use something like bass trap diffusers. They keep the bass from spreading out, and help in directing it to where you sit. Usually used in room corners. 

 

 

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Modern home entertainment devices have evolved in the recent years to electronics with a complicated interface and multiple connectivity. The home theater system, despite it simple but crucial role in the living room can be somewhat tricky to set up. Modern home theater systems have multiple connectivity options and several compatibility interfaces that only complicates the setup process.  shareit vidmate

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  • 1 month later...

So, made a bit of a leap a few days ago. I've been itching to make everything work with voice control, well at least the basics. So, instead of using four different remotes just to start up "theatre mode", and the same number of remotes to shut it down, at the least, I'd like to make Siri my bitch and get her to work this sh*t on her own. 

This itch actually started because the Sony projector remote is gigantic and not in a useful way. It just sits there, on my table, occupying immense space, and the only button I use on it is the power button. Ugh. I'd still probably not hate it if the size was purposeful. It's not. That expressway of a remote is mostly empty space. 

Sony, YUDOTHIS. 

 

I know creating this workflow isn't new, or groundbreaking in the least, but it was tricky for a few reasons. 

 

The devices I needed to work together: My projector, the pre-amp, my lights, and drapes. Also the AC as and when needed. The tricky part:

1. My projector does not offer app control, IP, trigger, and weirdly, does not seem to work with CEC. It also refuses to work with my Marantz remote's TV control panel. If only this would've worked, I may not have done all of the following, but it did not, and I did, and it's actually much better this way. 

2. Marantz does not offer voice control using Siri 

3. My curtain motor does not offer app control, and moreover, works on RF

 

I'd thought of getting a IR/RF blaster earlier and configure it to work, but there was no app that was good enough as an interface, which would mean I'd stop using it even if I did take the pain to set it up. And until recently, none of them offered iOS Shortcuts support and Siri integration. That changed a few days ago. 

 

I opened the App Store and Apple had featured AnyMote, an IR app that offered shortcuts support and Siri control. Downloaded it and it said to support AnyMote, Broadlink and one other IR blaster. Checked Amazon and Broadlink was available. Hmm. This could work. 

 

So, I ordered the Broadlink blaster, got it, and started to configure it. I thought this would be easy and quick. (Narrator's voice: It was neither easy, nor quick).

I thought it would be easy because three of the four things I wanted to integrate are popular, and from fairly prominent brands. And the one thing that wasn't, the curtain motor, it would be easy to make the app learn because it was only three simple functions: open, close, and stop. 

I thought it would be quick because I foresaw no complications. LOL. 

 

However, as I got into it, the AnyMote app turned out to be a total a**hole. It would crash randomly, the UI was at best okay, it would refuse to learn anything from the blaster, and worst of all, the database of fed remotes were either outdated, did not work, or jumbled with different labels for different functions. For eg: the latest set for a Marantz processor was the SR 7001! 

So I spent a lot, lot of time having configured remotes to my liking, and having set "scenes" which I could add to shortcuts and Siri. I figured that once I set everything up via Siri, I wouldn't have to open the app again and I wanted to never have to open it again. But this "featured" f**king app couldn't even run a shortcut! If the app was open when I asked Siri to run a command, it would crash. If it wasn't open, it would ask to be opened and Siri would ask me to unlock my phone to run a motherf**king voice command. I was ready, and willing to launch a physical attack on the App Store for featuring this mess, and on the developers for this hate crime of an app. 

 

Still, I did set it up, and it ran about 50% of the time, and I hoped it would improve. However, it could not run IF commands, which meant my curtains would be left out in the cold. So I thought of getting cute.

The blaster could run RF commands and the broad link app, as a*s-y as it is to use, did work perfectly. It learned the remotes instantly, the commands were there but it did not have shortcuts or Siri support. But it did feature IFTTT support. 

 

So, I set up a web trigger with IFTTT and Broadlink and mapped the open and close commands with those web triggers. And I could reach those triggers using Safari. Which meant, I could use the Shortcuts app to follow the AnyMote shortcut with the appropriate web trigger using Safari and everything should theoretically work. (Narrator's voice: it did not work)(Narrator 2's voice: haha). 

 

It didn't work because of AnyMote's shitty, and frankly absurd requirement of opening the app to run a shortcut. Which meant any shortcut that I'd set up to follow AnyMote wouldn't work.

 

At this point, I thought, f**k it, I already have the blaster and the Broadlink app works so I'd just see if instead of voice, I use the app and it makes my life easier. At the very least, I could work the projector and get that Godzilla remote off my table. But: the broad link app did not support Hue which meant I'd have to shuffle apps and Siri to set the scene. f**kTHIS.gif. 

 

Anyway, as I set up "scenes" in the Broadlink app I noticed a slightly obscure "Add To Siri" button. Holy mother of god. 

This was only available in one page of the app, below the "scenes" tab, and after you'd set up a scene, and there was no mention of it anywhere in the App Store app page, or the web. In fact, there's a dedicated top level "voice control" tab in the app which lists three options: IFTTT, Alexa, and some Chinese thing which I don't know about. 

JESUSf**kIGNCHRIST why. 

 

This thing though, works with Siri, works perfectly with shortcuts app, and I can create and add any other shortcuts and combine them in any way. Which means now, everything works. 

 

When I say "TV time": 

The PJ switches on

The pre/pro switches on

The pre-pro switches to Apple TV input

The curtains close

The lights become what I want them to become

 

When I say "Done for the day":

The PJ switches off

The pre/pro switches off

The lights go where I want them to go

Depending on the time and sunset/sunrise: the curtains will either remain closed, or open

 

A rainbow erupts in my room every time this works as it should. Which is nearly every single goddamn time. 

 

Oh, man. 

 

Some notes:

This would've been very, very, very, very, very easy if I used Alexa. f**k Alexa. 

Shame on Apple for featuring AnyMote. 

This is still IR control, and is uni-directional, unlike IP control. 

With IFTTT and Shortcuts you can create some truly amazing things for your home, if you invest in devices.

My AC still doesn't work. It is an extremely obscure Daikin cassette AC with a particularly idiotic remote feature: the on-off triggers aren't the same command, are sequential, and from the same button. What this means is: if the AC is on, I press the power button and somehow the AC can't catch it, the next command from the remote will be "On" instead of a simple trigger which will switch the AC off. The app and the blaster can't quite catch this idiotic thing but for now, I'm not going to bother. Will take this battle on when I take it on. 

 

Phew. 

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  • 8 months later...

I am looking for a good audio setup, from the other online shopping thread i got some recommendations some were costly beyond 20k.

Lately i am seeing many TVs of various brand having weird audio clicking and other issues with audio system setups. So i don't want something costly that turns out to be a dud.

I shortlisted these 2, if anyone uses them then please provide feedback.

- Creative stage 160 v2 [ please give review of stage v1 as v2 was just launched a few days back ]
- EDIFIER M3600D 2.1 [ loved the sound in one review i saw, but the catch is i can't find it anywhere to buy online and dunno where they sell it in mumbai ]

I'll be connecting the setup to TV with optical so HDMI availability doesn't matter for EDIFIER.

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2 hours ago, adity said:

I'm thinking of buying Samsung Q800T soundbar. Any feedback? Getting it for 36.5k ish

 

I often read in home theater and audiophile communities that soundbars are not a good investment both time and money wise. It's always recommended to go with passive stereo speakers first and even at $50 to $100 there are stereo speakers like Micca that outperform most of the expensive soundbars available in the market from what I have been reading for the past 2 years. You can also slowly turn it to 5.1 or 7.1 later. Even active speakers are much better option to go with apparently if you don't have any plans to build a home theater. I got Vanatoo Transparent Zero active stereo speakers for 26K from US through my brother and the quality is mind boggling! They legit give me an orgasm everyday! My 20K headphones have been literally collecting dust since I bought them! I have also read plenty of reviews on sites like Reddit where users regretted selling their cheap speakers for expensive soundbars. So do consider that.

Edited by The Panda
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12 hours ago, NitroNeo said:

I am looking for a good audio setup, from the other online shopping thread i got some recommendations some were costly beyond 20k.

 

1 hour ago, adity said:

I'm thinking of buying Samsung Q800T soundbar. Any feedback? Getting it for 36.5k ish

 

Not much idea about this segment of the market but generally I'd prefer audio specific brands like JBL. Prefer one with a separate subwoofer. Listen to it live before buying, or forever hold your peace :P

 

4 minutes ago, The Panda said:

I often read in home theater and audiophile communities that soundbars are not a good investment both time and money wise.

 

Soundbars do have a place and fulfil a different set of requirements, chief being the sleek placement below a thin and sleek TV. They also offer decent general-purpose audio.

 

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After reading your thoughts on soundbar it seems it resonates with most redditers. For me sound quality matters nore than looks.

I am in love with Edifier M3600D but can't find it anywhere in stock. It reminds me of my creative SBS 550. And after seeing this youtube video i do understand THX certification has it's merits. Any other THX Certified 2.1 setup like this one. This is so great at 12k it's a steal.

Damn i want this



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