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The Three Red Lights of Death and Methods of Prevention!


SchizoidFreud

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lol my console is a 2007 model(elite) and its rrod'ed on me after a year ,so its not vanished

 

I was playing Gears1 2day and immediately after killing tat general at end of act5 xbox was freezed. :D I rebooted and it gave me 3 red lights :cursing: . I rebooted it aftr an hr and it is wrkng. It is the 2nd time it has happened to me. what to do now.

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When considering the probability of electronic hardware failing, statistically speaking, DVD-Roms, Hard Drives, and the cooling fans in the 360 have the greatest odds of failing first. Mechanical parts go first.

 

However, now that lead based solder is no longer used in the manufacturing process of electronics, they're using lead-free tin based solder. You can read a bit about it here, even though it's old (1995). http://www.aimsolder.com/techarticles/A%20...er%20Alloys.pdf

 

The cold solder joint problem (3 red lights) is due to a combination of things. This solder takes less heat to soften and can crack if it's heated up too quickly. Most electronics don't generate nearly the amount of heat that an Xbox 360 can, especially by the GPU. The RAM chips on the 360 mainboard are also soldered on in a much more delicate way than done in the past, so they're especially prone to the same kind of solder cracking that happens on a pin on the GPU, when heated to extremes.

 

Consider how most of the power of the 360 lies in the GPU for high graphics intensity, it gets the hottest out of the two processors in the console.

 

The PS3 could suffer from similar problems, but the frequency could vary just because of the fact that it is made up of what, 7 cell processors? All of the power isn't focused in one central spot and thus it doesn't generate heat as rapidly in one centralized location. Many other electronics simply won't suffer the same kind of problems due to low heat generation as well.

 

The funny thing is that a lot of people will interpret this as "The 360 has overheating problems", which isn't really the case. In fact, overheating the console has been the only "homebrew" fix that people have come up with. Some people get results by running the console while it's wrapped in a dry towel to prevent any ventilation, allowing the 360 to reach very high temps. This actually can provide results because the extreme heat actually melts the solder that is cracked, which then is fixed when the console cools once again. The heat gun trick is the same concept, but requires you to carefully use a hot air gun to heat the mainboard directly around the GPU and RAM in order to do the same thing.

 

The key is not to get the hardware in the 360 too hot too fast!!

 

Here are some tips to prolong the life of your console:

 

1. Set the 360 to always boot to the dashboard in the setup options. This way, even if you leave a game in the console, it won't load the game immediately when you power it on.

 

2. Let the 360 warm up at the dashboard for at least a few minutes before you load your game. This will allow the 360 to warm up before you push it to extreme levels of heat with graphics intensive games.

 

3. When you're done playing a game, use the guide menu to return the console to the dashboard. This way the 360 can go back into a warm state after you've gotten it hot from gaming, while the fans continue running. This will allow the 360 to reach a reasonable temp before you power it off. If you don't do this, you shut the fans off and trap a bunch of heat inside the console that can cause the hardware problems. Let the 360 run at the dashboard for a few minutes before shutting it off.

 

I want to elaborate on why you should return to the dash after you're playing and let it cool down with the fans running and it's not working hard displaying the dashboard etc. Obviously the console wasn't designed with the requirement for you to do this in mind, but I do seriously believe in everything I've recommended so far.

 

Most problems are likely due to turning the console on and loading a game too quickly, meaning, rapid heating. The issue with trapping heat in the console by turning it off without letting it cool at the dash is really when the console is moved in this state. If it's hot enough and the solder inside is soft enough and you move the console, the softer solder could actually move and lose a connection during cooling. For example, you take it on the go or put it away when it's not in use, but you just shut it off and start moving it around.

 

Lastly, if you get rainbow patterns and artifacts in games, this means that one of your RAM chips is suffering from a cold solder joint. Same problem, different part. A more severe RAM connection loss will actually give you 3 red lights as well. Artifacts and so forth mean the connection is there, but weak.

did u get any rrod if yes how many?

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